EBC Settings w/Z-Chip

[Sicks]

Does anyone have an electronic boost control installed in conjunction with their Z-chip (the AEM Tru-boost to be more specific)? I was curious to know what the recommended settings were for Duty Cycle and Spring Crack Pressure. :confused:

[Tunerhead]

I don't have the AEM (EBC) but I do have the HKS EVC (EBC) - newly just got it in the mail. I should be getting all the installations done within the next couple of weeks and Zchip tuned so I will keep ya posted.

[dkstas]

Just play with your duty cycle settings until you hit 24 psi...every car is different. I normally set my crack pressure or gain, pretty high, above 75%.

[08Evo]

Would an EBC be a better way to go? If it has the double actuator?

I can't think of the model off the top of my head but its made by blitz. Is that a recomended option?

MBC i think would be a temp thing and eventually get the EBC.

Thanks guys.

[Sicks]

my buddy has one in his IX. the interface looks cool how you can scroll through it, but that's about all i know

[Sicks]

Well, I think I got a hang of tuning my EBC and it really does make even more of a difference on top of the Z-Chip tune. After reading through the AEM forum, it seems the method is this (which pertains to AEM Tru-boost, but the concept is most likely universal):

Setting up the Tru-boost

1. With the gauge powered up and the engine running hold the left button for 2 seconds and switch to Run Mode A.

2. Then hold both buttons for 2 seconds to get into program mode.

3. Press the left button once to get into program mode A. Once in the Program mode for setting A, start from 10% duty and add 2% duty at a time until the desired boost pressure is achieved. Do a full-throttle pull in a high gear and watch for boost spikes. Please remember depending on the engine/turbo/manifold design you might not get any boost increase until you get to 20-30% duty. In this case you can add 5-10% at a time until you get closer to your desired boost level.

4. Once you get to your desired boost turn the key off and back on or press both buttons till you are out of program mode.

5. Hold both buttons again to get into program mode and keep pressing both buttons till you get to the sPr/Gae option (wastegate crack pressure). You can see page 7 in the manual to follow the tree structure. To help the turbo spool quickly, the Tru-boost can hold the solenoid at 100% duty if boost is below this pressure. Think of it like the electronic equivalent of a wastegate spring. Start from 1psi and increase the sPr/Gae value 1psi at a time until you go over your desired boost target during pulls. For example: If your target boost is 15psi and you add 1psi to your waste gate crack pressure and your boost spikes over 15psi, you will need to decrease the number for sPr/Gae.

Depending on your turbo, manifold, engine characteristics or combinations you might end up with boost pressure dropping off at high RPM or Boost pressure spiking high at high RPM. The Tru-Boost controller can't compensate for this, it was designed to be a simple boost controller without too many options. Just make sure you follow the steps above to accurately and quickly set up your Tru-Boost controller.

If you are having trouble watching your peak boost, you can press and hold the right button for 2 seconds to display this. If you want to clear out your peak boost reading, press and hold the right button for 5 seconds.

After adjusting it, I feel I have found a smooth, yet powerful boost curve. However, I'm still having an initial boost spike in 1st and 2nd gears even with the lowest settings. I have a strong feeling the "Free Mod" a.k.a. tightening the wastegate arm 3.5 turns is the culprit. I'm going to try to back it out to 1.5 turns today and see if this solves the spiking issue.

[Tunerhead]

Well, I think I got a hang of tuning my EBC and it really does make even more of a difference on top of the Z-Chip tune. After reading through the AEM forum, it seems the method is this (which pertains to AEM Tru-boost, but the concept is most likely universal):

Setting up the Tru-boost

1. With the gauge powered up and the engine running hold the left button for 2 seconds and switch to Run Mode A.

2. Then hold both buttons for 2 seconds to get into program mode.

3. Press the left button once to get into program mode A. Once in the Program mode for setting A, start from 10% duty and add 2% duty at a time until the desired boost pressure is achieved. Do a full-throttle pull in a high gear and watch for boost spikes. Please remember depending on the engine/turbo/manifold design you might not get any boost increase until you get to 20-30% duty. In this case you can add 5-10% at a time until you get closer to your desired boost level.

4. Once you get to your desired boost turn the key off and back on or press both buttons till you are out of program mode.

5. Hold both buttons again to get into program mode and keep pressing both buttons till you get to the sPr/Gae option (wastegate crack pressure). You can see page 7 in the manual to follow the tree structure. To help the turbo spool quickly, the Tru-boost can hold the solenoid at 100% duty if boost is below this pressure. Think of it like the electronic equivalent of a wastegate spring. Start from 1psi and increase the sPr/Gae value 1psi at a time until you go over your desired boost target during pulls. For example: If your target boost is 15psi and you add 1psi to your waste gate crack pressure and your boost spikes over 15psi, you will need to decrease the number for sPr/Gae.

Depending on your turbo, manifold, engine characteristics or combinations you might end up with boost pressure dropping off at high RPM or Boost pressure spiking high at high RPM. The Tru-Boost controller can't compensate for this, it was designed to be a simple boost controller without too many options. Just make sure you follow the steps above to accurately and quickly set up your Tru-Boost controller.

If you are having trouble watching your peak boost, you can press and hold the right button for 2 seconds to display this. If you want to clear out your peak boost reading, press and hold the right button for 5 seconds.

After adjusting it, I feel I have found a smooth, yet powerful boost curve. However, I'm still having an initial boost spike in 1st and 2nd gears even with the lowest settings. I have a strong feeling the "Free Mod" a.k.a. tightening the wastegate arm 3.5 turns is the culprit. I'm going to try to back it out to 1.5 turns today and see if this solves the spiking issue.

Wow good write-up! Hope I can apply this type of solution to the HKS EBC whenever I get it installed and configured.

[Sicks]

Wow good write-up! Hope I can apply this type of solution to the HKS EBC whenever I get it installed and configured.

HKS EBC it's called "Gain" instead of "Crack Pressure", but the same method applies I'm sure.

[Tunerhead]

HKS EBC it's called "Gain" instead of "Crack Pressure", but the same method applies I'm sure.

Thanks man that is good to know......much appreciated! This is my not so strong suit, but I'm learning as time go by. :D

[Sicks]

I backed the wastegate arm out to 1.5 turns over stock and am still having initial boost spikes on the lowest spring crack pressure and duty cycle. :mad:

I'll try at the stock setting after work and see what I get. If it's still giving me lip, I'm selling it off and getting a MBC and gauge!

If anyone has any ideas or things I should check, feel free to chime in.

[Sicks]

I found the answer. The stock boost controller becomes obsolete and should have the hoses disconnected and barbs capped. Leave the wire harness in to avert a CEL though.

This is probably the cause of my spiking.... I hope.

3