Installation of the ZChip on Lancer Evo X:

[TTP Engineering]

see new thread..................................

[lallen3]

What else does it plug into? :D

[tsitalon1]

Just wanna make sure:

1. Can we use the White/green wire off the #4 coil as well?
2. Safe to use Posi-tap?

Posi tap "appears" to be less intrusive and more easily reverted back due to how it taps in.

[tsitalon1]

What else does it plug into? :D

Map sensor on front of motor on intake manifold directly under oil dipstick.

[lallen3]

So is it safe to say that it taps the RPM wire (white/red stripe) & gets in between the MAF? For some reason I was under the impression that it plugged into the ECU (to alter MIVEC, ignition timing, A/F ratio, etc..) :confused:

[TTP Engineering]

Just wanna make sure:

1. Can we use the White/green wire off the #4 coil as well?
2. Safe to use Posi-tap?

Posi tap "appears" to be less intrusive and more easily reverted back due to how it taps in.

http://www.posi-lock.com/NewFiles/posi-tap_n2_a2.jpg

This is what I have found on that product:

They appear to work for this application. For 99% of the buyers however the 3m taps will be suitible.

Posi-Products (Division of Swenco) has done it again! Here's their latest must-have product: the Posi-Products Posi-Tap in-line connector!
If you've used the Posi-Products Posi-Lock, Posi-Twist or other Posi-Products connectors, you'll probably agree that these products are incredibly great for use on motorcycles.

They're shock proof, vibration proof, water-sand-dust resistant and reusable. They make any type of motorcycle electrical work so much easier and more professional looking.

Now the new Posi-Tap connector makes it so easy to tap into a motorcycle's "hot wire" in the electrical system.

The lower part of the Posi-Tap works like the normal Posi-Lock or Posi-Twist connectors. Strip the wire or wires and place them in the male threaded tube, like the green, yellow, white and black wires in the photo. Then screw on the center section.
To tap into the "hot" wire, lay the wire in the Posi-Tap's cap, then simply screw the cap on to the center section. That's all there is to it -- no crimping (which doesn't work anyway!), no soldering. The "needle" that's just visible in the photo at left will pierce the hot wire's sheath to provide power.

I used these recently to tap into my '86 BMW R65's brake light hot wire to add the transmitter for the RiderLight LED wireless helmet brake light and it made the job quick and easy. I never use any other type of connectors if I can help it.

The Posi-Tap can hold up to four 18-guage, three 16-guage, two 14-guage or one 12-guage wire.

The Posi-Tap is made of Nylon 66, and the internal conductor material is tin plated brass. The connector is about 37.5mm (1.48") long, and 13mm (.50") in diameter.

The Posi-Tap can fit just about anywhere on a motorcycle where you need to tap into a hot wire to power lighting, auxiliary switches, heated clothing leads or more. The threaded ends hold tight -- I've never had a Posi-Lock connector come loose, even with all the vibration that motorcycles can generate. These are really secure connections, and the best part is how quickly and neatly any electrical connecting work can be accomplished.

Order the Posi-Tap connectors through the Posi-Lock website. Unfortunately, they're currently only available in boxes of 40, but hopefully Posi-Products will add them to one of their assortment packages very soon!

[TTP Engineering]

So is it safe to say that it taps the RPM wire (white/red stripe) & gets in between the MAF? For some reason I was under the impression that it plugged into the ECU (to alter MIVEC, ignition timing, A/F ratio, etc..)
This is NOT correct. The MAF sensor has nothing to do with the ZChip.

The inherent name of "piggyback ecu" indicates it is a unit that works in conjunction with the existing ecu in order to achieve the performance results demonstrated in all of the dynotesting.

[TTP Engineering]

Just wanna make sure:

1. Can we use the White/green wire off the #4 coil as well?
2. Safe to use Posi-tap?

Posi tap "appears" to be less intrusive and more easily reverted back due to how it taps in.

You may use another coil trigger. Each coil of the 4 individual coils has its own coil trigger.

90% of the reason we have chosen the recommended location to tap for tach signal is its discrete location away from the ECU wiring loom where it could be seen as well as also being AWAY from the many megajoules of electric interference from the coils themselves.

Last thing you would want is signal interference from other coils affecting the wire run near the coils.

[lallen3]

This is NOT correct. The MAF sensor has nothing to do with the ZChip.

The inherent name of "piggyback ecu" indicates it is a unit that works in conjunction with the existing ecu in order to achieve the performance results demonstrated in all of the dynotesting.

My mistake! I could have sworn a couple of different users said it "taps a coil driver & plugs in in-line with the MAF. It's really hard to tell what it's actually plugged into from the pictures posted here, so I'll just ask directly- where does it actually hook up?

[Sicks]

My mistake! I could have sworn a couple of different users said it "taps a coil driver & plugs in in-line with the MAF. It's really hard to tell what it's actually plugged into from the pictures posted here, so I'll just ask directly- where does it actually hook up?

There's a wire loom that runs directly underneath your upper intercooler pipe and stock bov pipe. Pry open the loom and cut away the electric tape to expose the wires inside. Tap into the white wire w/red stripe. I found mine on the bottom of the bundle towards the back. I also used a small flat head screwdriver to separate the wire from the rest for slack.

[TTP Engineering]

There's a wire loom that runs directly underneath your upper intercooler pipe and stock bov pipe. Pry open the loom and cut away the electric tape to expose the wires inside. Tap into the white wire w/red stripe. I found mine on the bottom of the bundle towards the back. I also used a small flat head screwdriver to separate the wire from the rest for slack.

Yes all 4 coil wires are at the bottom of the loom. Knowing where they are ahead of time speeds up the time it takes to located them. :)

[lallen3]

There's a wire loom that runs directly underneath your upper intercooler pipe and stock bov pipe. Pry open the loom and cut away the electric tape to expose the wires inside. Tap into the white wire w/red stripe. I found mine on the bottom of the bundle towards the back. I also used a small flat head screwdriver to separate the wire from the rest for slack.


Got it installed in about 15 minutes.. thanks for all the help everyone! :)

[lallen3]

There's a wire loom that runs directly underneath your upper intercooler pipe and stock bov pipe. Pry open the loom and cut away the electric tape to expose the wires inside. Tap into the white wire w/red stripe. I found mine on the bottom of the bundle towards the back. I also used a small flat head screwdriver to separate the wire from the rest for slack.

Car runs super strong, and I can feel the high rpm misfiring has vanished. ASC idiot light coming on tho. :p

[tsitalon1]

So does the ASC work as normal and this is just a nuisance, or is the ASC system actually disabled?

[donny_b]

Quick install, no problems. No Lights for me, and gunned the car pretty hard. I have and MR by the way. Maybe my tune is not too aggressive, but it's good for me until the SST thing get resolved.